Mystras - St. Demetrios - The Metropolis

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As the visitor approaches he sees the east side of the church, built according to the enclosed brick system, characteristic of ecclesiastical architecture of the middle-Byzantine period.
The three-storeyed bell-tower on the left- a heavy edifice like a Franklish tower - was built much later, during the 14th century, on top of a pre-existing side chapel, erected shortly after the church and incorporated within it. The original height of its roof may still be discerned from the two horizontal courses  of porous stones.
Proceeding a short distance one sees on the the right a stone with dark stains that suggest drops blood is protected by a grille on the exterior wall of the courtyard. This is traditionally believed to be the spot where Ananias Lambardis, Metropolitan bishop of Lacedaemonia, was executed my the Turks, because he was one of the instigators of the insurrection which ended, three years later, in the uprising of Orloff.
Beyond it is another of the fountains commonly encountered at Mystra, followed by a gate which leads to the Metropolis.
To the right, and at the end of the first paved court with the monumental stairway beyond the fountain a little vaulted stairway leads to the women's gallery from the exterior south side of the church. On the left wall of the landing, formed after the seventh step, the founder's inscription may be read. From it we learn that the church was founded by the Metropolitan Bishop Nicephorus in 1291-92. It reads as follows:
<< The humble Nicephorus, prelate of Crete, who has as collaborator his brother Aaron, erected this holy house of worship
At the time of Andronicus Palaelogus,
Who held the sceptre over the Romans, and of his son,
Michael,
May those who pass here beseech that they be forgiven their sins
And found beside the flock on the right had of Christ
When He appears at the Last Judgement>>.
The original architectural plan of the Metropolis was that of a three-naved basilica. Later, probably in the 15th century, another storey, consisting of a women's gallery and a cruciform roof with five cupolas, was added above the interior frieze of the first storey.The church thus evolved into an architectural form which was to be repeated at the Aphentiko and the Pantanassa; a form which consists of a combination of the three-naved basilica on the ground floor and a cruciform church with five domes and a women's gallery on the upper storey. According to an inscription in relief on the level of the women's gallery, this transformation was the work of Mathew, Metropolitan Bishop of Lacedaemonia.
The manner whereby the transformation of the shape of the roof was effected - and the reason for which is unknown- resulted the complete destruction of a series of frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Christ on the north side and in lopping off the upper part of others in the central nave.
From top (women's gallery) to bottom the church retains its earliest iconography which, since the last cleaning in 1968, has recovered the brilliance of its colors and revealed fresh details now unconverted by the removal of murky deposits and some later frescoes.

 
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The apse of the sanctuary is dominated by the upright figure of the <<Virgin Vrephocratousa>>. Eleven scenes from the martyrdom of St. Demetrios are depicted in the middle section (towards the sanctuary) of the vault of the north nave. The Miracles of Christ are represented on the rest of the vault. Three zones of paintings cover the entire wall space of this nave in the following order(top to bottom): saints within medallions; pairs of martyrs; full length military saints.
On the opposite nave, in the vaulted section within the sanctuary which contains the Diaconicon, there is a grandiose composition depicting angels preparing the throne of Christ of the <<Second Coming>>. In the remaining section of the nave scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin extend as far as the bishop's wooden throne. Between this point and the narthex the vault is covered with a composition depicting the miracles of Christ which, in accordance with Byzantine tradition, follow one another chronologically, although represented in a single composition, as though depicting events that were occurring simultaneously and not successively.
Between the sanctuary and narthex full-length figures, probably representing the Apostles: are reanged at a much lower level along the wall of the same nave.
The walls the narthex are decorated with a depiction of the << Second Coming>>. Here all the walls and vaults are covered with representations related to this grandiose composition, at the center of which is the Preparation of the Throne which extends across half the vault, above the wooden entrance door.
Angels with red wings stand around the throne; below them, on the arches which frame the opening of the door, two angels awaiting the arrival of Christ hold open Books of Judgement.
The iconographic decoration of the Metropolis- the earliest monument in Mystra and especially rich in inscriptions- must have been executed between 1270 and 1285 and possesses little homogeneity of style. The variety furnished by different schools of painting nevertheless gives this church a special place in the history of Byzantine art, the painted decoration providing a kind of synopsis of earlier styles which foreshadow some of the best work of the Palaeologus renaissance.
The decoration of the church is completed by the sculptures on the columns and <<iconostatis>> which consist of reused materials removed from elsewhere and consequently do not present any uniformity of style or epoch. The Double-Headed Eagle, the heraldic device of the Paleologus dynasty, is depicted in relief on a plaque on the pavement in center of the church. Polychrome marble fragments of the early pavement survive here and there. The subject-matter of the incised inscriptions on the columns consists of an inventory of the church's various buildings and dependencies. Fragmentary frescoes of prelates are visible on the exterior walls of the colonnaded court which recalls the architecture of the Renaissance. The Marmara sarcophagus is placed on the south side of the court. Immediately opposite is the Museum, the ground floor of which possesses a large collection of inscriptions, bas-reliefs, columnettes and capitals removed from various churches and mansions. Fragments of frescoes from ruined chapels, portative icons, jewelry, coins and a piece of Byzantine cloth found in the course of excavation are displayed in the second hall. The court, including its colonnades and the group of outhouses which now form the Museum, were built by the Metropolitan Bishop Ananias, who was executed outside the buildings by the Turks. The relevant inscription embedded in the wall of the second storey balcony of the Museum runs as follows:
<< The chambers and gates here are not ancient
But built by Bishop Ananias
Who has renewed them from their Bases, at a cost
Paid from Dimitsana 1754>>


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