
This large imposing church, with its chapels, cells and
porticoes,buildabout twenty years after the Holy Theodoroi, is an illustration
of Pachomius endeavor to raise an impressive edifice would recall the
architecture of the capital of the Empire.
The exterior, restored by professor Orlandos, is the form of a five-domes edifice. At each
of the four corners rise chapels, like miniature towers; in the south corner of the west
side is the restored well-proportioned belfry. Originally, the north and west sides of the
church were embellished with porticoes- an architectural feature that will be encountered
again at the Pantanassa. At the Aphendiko only the bases of the arches of the colonnade
are preserved on the west side, whereas on the north, from which the church is now
entered, a few columns, replaced in the restoration, indicate the position of the
one-time-portico.
The architectural plan of interior is both interesting and individual. The ground floor is
in the form of a three-naved basilica, with two colonnades of three columns each, whereas
the upper register consists of the entire complex of a << tetrastyly cruciform
church>> with five cupolas and a sixth crowning the narthex. This conflation of the
basilica an cruciform plans had not been previously encountered outside Mystra, except in
the chapel of the Katapoliani on the island of Paros.
Originally, the walls were covered with marble revetments up to the base of
the colonnade of the women's gallery and in the two side naves. They must have added
variety and splendor to the scene. Three small marble rectangles, respectively white,
black and dark magenta in color, are still preserved on the south colonnade next to the
sanctuary. A series of three successive slabs of white marble with carved decoration are
also preserved above the small window in the apse of the Diaconicon.Of the small marble
rectangles which surrounded the frescoes(now completely destroyed) in the two side naves
and the marvelously preserved figures of the bishops in the sanctuary, only the coffers
remain. An impression of the elegance of the capitals is obtained from the only remaining
authentic one which crowns the first column of the south colonnade.
The frescoes in a good state of preservation include the <<Virgin Platytera>>
in the apse of the sanctuary, the Ascension in the arch above the sanctuary, the partially
preserved Nativity in the next arch within the cross of the dome, and the Baptism in the
south arm of the cross of the dome. One the lower level the apse of the sanctuary is
almost entirely covered with two series of full-length figures of bishops in a good state
of preservation. The Holy community of the Apostles may be distinguished on the wall-space
surrounding on of the three sanctuary windows.Pairs of figures of saints and martyrs
extend across the walls of Pairs of figures of saints and martyrs extend across the walls
of the two naves, on the level of the ceiling of the women's gallery.
On the north-east side of the narthex are depictions of the miracles of
Christ. The tomb of the Despot Theodore II Palaeologus, who abandoned the ways of the
world in order to don a monk's habit, is situated in the chapel entered through this side
the narthex.
On the wall above the tomb Theodore is depicted in the dignified robes of a Despot, and
right in the simple habit of a monk. The latter is one of the finest surviving Byzantine
portraits. The tomb on the west side of the chapel is that of Pachomius, found and abbot
of the monastery.
On the wall are traces of a fresco in which the Protosyncellus of the Peloponnese is
depicted kneeling, as he offers a model of the Church of the Hodeghetria of the Virgin,
who stands erect, holding the Child. Higher up, on the same side, there is a superb
procession of martyrs in a remarkable state of preservation. On the same level on the
other two walls groups of saints, depicted in turning movements similar to those of the
martyrs, proceed in the direction of the Lord, who is represented in the apse of the east
wall of the chapel.
The chapel on the opposite side of the narthex is completely dark, without a single window
or aperture. Its four walls are covered from top to bottom with copies of chrysobulls,
published by the Emperor and stamped with his gold seal, relating to the
constitution of the Monastery of the Vrontochion. Here were listed the estates, often
reaching the proportions of entire tracts of the Peloponnese, together with the names of
villages and the number of their inhabitants, which formed part of the Monastery's
property. The chrysolbulls also contained references to the fact that these estates
were, thanks to tie <imperial favor>>, exempt from all taxation and independent
of the authority of the local clergy. These for decrees, dated to the period 1313-22,
reveal the great social significance attached to the monasteries as political and social
factors in Byzantine life, particularly during the last centuries of the Empire. Four
beautiful angels, which form part of a larger composition no longer existent may be
discerned on the ceiling of the chapel.
A steep narrow stairway leads to the women's gallery. On the side walls are well
preserved full-length figures of the seventy apostles. Their drapery recalls that of the
art of Classical Greece

On the south side of the church there is a large sepulchral chapel. It is full of
frescoes which, after being cleaned in 1969, have recovered some of the original
brightness of their colors. On the walls above the tombs were once portraits, of which
only two survive of the persons buried here. A very detailed representation of the
Dormition of the Virgin runs round the entire chapel. the ceiling is covered with crowded
depictions of scenes from the childhood of Christ.
The next small chapel was built, according to an inscription on the interior wall, by the
Abbot and Protosyncellus Cyprian. It contains some well preserved figures of bishops and
scenes from the life of Christ. Of these the most interesting, from the point of view of
subject-matter, is the one on the part of the vault opposite the entrance. It depicts
John, Bishop of Euchaita, with the three Hierarchs, the dates of whose feasts, suggested
to him in a dream, were introduced into the Calendar and subsequently confirmed by the
Church.
The painters who worked at the Aphetiko, and who probably came from Constantinople, have
left us some of the finest frescoes of the early 14th century. The artist who worked in
the women's gallery was bold and lavish in his use of color, whereas the painter of the
figures of the Bishops in the sanctuary seems, for all his refinement and feeling for
religious dignity, to have been more restrained. The skill of the painter who depicted the
life of Christ in the narthex is apparent in the variety of movements, the elegance of the
attitudes and the range of simple rather delicate colors. The <<procession of
martyrs>>, with its slender idealized figures in beautifully colored garments, is
strikingly characteristic example of that refined school of painting know in the history
of art as << the Palaeologue renaissance>>.Ruined monastic outhouses surround
the Aphentiko. The tall narrow building, once two-storied situated beside the south wall
of the church, was originally the <<trapeza>>.A series of cells lined the
north and west sides of the church. At the north-west angle of the peribolus rises a
half-ruined tower, a fragment of the fortification system in this section on the enceinte.
The tower was intended to defend the Monastery.
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NIKOS V. GEORGIADIS - MISTRA